First off the vehicle is a 91 civic hatchback with an h22a using rywire engine harness and obd0 to obd1 at the ecu, running the stock p13 ecu for now. So my 2 problems are: 1) at first start up the car will crank over for a rather long time(say 5 secs) and start, then die in about 2 or 3 secs. I crank it over right after this happens and it will start up just fine and stay running...any ideas why it is doing this? 2) Once warmed up or even cold, if I am in neutral and go to rev the car up quick, it bogs down and drops the idle to around 300ish, but if I slowly push the accelerator down the rpms will rise just fine, also if I slowly push the gas and then smash it to make it rise faster it will be just fine...only seems to drop when it is at idle and smash the gas...any ideas?
Stuff that may matter....swapped battery to the back, gsr cluster wired in, ESP mounts/traction bar, my CEL is on...but not sure how to check the codes since it is obd1 in an obd0 car, I have the blue wire grounded like rywire said to do but have read that this should be toggled to see the codes. Is this why my cel is on constantly? It doesn't flash any codes at me, it is just constantly on...
Thanks for your help!
Hello, should be able to take a Red horse shoe wire connector put it the blue plug to complete the circuit under the glove box near the door. This should trigger your CEL and it will flash codes... Long flashes, for tens, short ones for 1's. Let me know what it shows. -John
Ok, so all I need to do is complete that one circuit, and leave the one coming from the ecu grounded or do i connect that to the plug near the glove box as well? Which in turn will cause my cel on my gauge cluster to flash at me? And I would assume I do this with the car on?
Which ecu are you using P13? P28?
Go to the below link it will show you how to read a code with the P13 ecu. P28 will require to tap the 1 wire forgot which wire and ground it to chassis to read code. One or the other not both.
Copy paste or click
Will let you know what codes it is throwing and what not when I have time...also forgot to mention that I have the egr completed taken out and block off, an aem rail and fpr so I need to play with this a little more probably to help the bogging down issue I hope...
Yea if you have a P13. and the EGR taken out, it will look for it when the car has a load on it such as a hill and your CEL will come on, it's what they call a soft code doesnt effect anything but just a light coming on. P28 obd1 ecu with a H22 base map will eliminate the EGR issue, since they don't have EGR in the p28.
Fuel note, invest in a marshall fuel pressure gauge (liquid filled, a must) want it around 38 psi. If you don't have a gauge could be way off
Sorry forgot to mention I do have a fuel pressure gauge...car is at paint so will update when I get a chance...i do have a p72 with s300 that I will put in at the shop so they can tune it on that, just wanted to get everything else straight before the tune/dyno. When looking at the pressure gauge and adjusting the pressure at the fpr do you do it with the vacuum line connected to the manifold or plugged?
38 psi vacuum hose disconnected or pinched
To update this, I found the blue clip and put a wire in it to bridge the two wires, turned the car on and my cel was on but wasn't blinking or anything, so I have no idea what codes I am throwing still... I also adjusted my fuel pressure regulator to 38, and car still bogs when I push the gas real quick, other then that it idles fine and will still rev up. I have yet to actually drive the car on the street so can't tell you if it feels limp or anything...any ideas? Or should I not worry about it and wait till i get it tuned with hondata and hope that fixes the problem?
could it possibly be that i need to adjust my tps?!?
Update: My tps is set to .5 volts so that wasnt it. I decided to plug in a p72 with hondata to see what codes i am throwing and they were code 13 and 16. I disabled code 13 because I heard it is rather unimportant...true? And for code 16, is their any way to tell if my injectors are bad or my injector resistor box is bad? I also decided to make sure the stuff coming out of my exhaust was gas...so I tried to let it on fire but didn't light...could it be a crapload of condensation...it puts out a lot when i rev it...
any advice would be appreciated!
Yea never had a code 13 before yes ignore that. Or disconnect it if you can. 16 is Fuel Injectors. I would take them out and have someone in the know clean them out and see if they can diagnose they are working properly. OBD1 92-95 H22 injectors. This would definetly effect running if an injector is limp or bad.
Take Fuel Rail off, simply give tap upwards to the fuel rail and pull up then slide injectors out of the O ring and pull out. -John
I just took the rail off and what not, i primed the car to test to see if any of them were stuck open but they are not since they didn't allow fuel to pass through, I figured one of them maybe stuck open because i lose pressure once i shut the car off rather quick, is that normal with aftermarket fpr?